Is Bakuchiol Really an Ayurvedic Beauty Oil?

If you’re into natural skin care products, you certainly have seen the emergence of "bakuchiol" in the mainstream market as a great alternative to  retinol which, contrary to its original purpose, has proven to be drying. But is bakuchiol really an Ayurvedic beauty oil? The answer is yes... and no. And how is it different from bakuchi oil?

Bakuchiol is currently presented as a great Ayurvedic aging-defying oil.

When I first heard about it, I felt confused between bakuchiol and bakuchi oil, the traditional Ayurvedic preparation. From an Ayurvedic perspective, these two substances are very distinct in their preparation, their energetic properties, their effects, and their therapeutic applications.

The Traditional Bakuchi Oil

In Ayurveda, bakuchi oil is derived from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, also called babchi.  Well known in Ayurveda as the "destroyer of leprosy," this botanical powerhouse excels at restoring skin health by stimulating collagen production and correcting pigmentary issues like vitiligo. Beyond its regenerative capabilities, it is recognized as a vigorous tonic for the complexion. Its sharp, bitter flavor profile and a warming effect are its more potent characteristics.

• Dosha Impact: Traditional vaidyas (Ayurvedic doctors) use the raw bakuchi oil to pacify Kapha and Vata doshas. Because of its intense heating quality, it is rarely recommended for individuals with a dominant Pitta constitution, as it can cause redness or excessive heat if not balanced correctly with other ingredients.

• Therapeutic Action: Tt is specifically indicated for chronic skin conditions involving pigment loss such as vitiligo or stubborn lesions associated with an imbalance of the metabolic fire in the skin. Bakuchi oil works by stimulating this local fire to restore color and vitality,

• The "Whole Plant" Philosophy: Ayurveda emphasizes the synergy of the whole seed. Bakuchi oil contains not just the active phenol, but also resins, coumarins, and essential fatty acids that modulate the oil’s intensity and provide a holistic healing effect.

Bakuchiol: The Traditional Version

Bakuchi oil is obtained by soaking 1 part of bakuchi seeds in 16 parts of water overnight, reducing that to 4 parts, mixing it with sesame oil, and boiling off the water. That oil becomes the primary ingredient. It is then mixed with other cold-pressed oils such as jojoba, olive (infused with bitter gourd, marigold, banana, and bay leaves), and sesame oil, along with essential oils such as tea tree, cedarwood, lavender, and neem. Quite a recipe isn't it!

Making traditional medicinal oils is a honoured, precise and time-consuming process that has been used for a few thousand years. If you ever have the possibility of visiting a place where such oils are produced, don't miss the chance. The science and aromas involved will change your perspective of "medicine."

Bakuchiol: A Modern Isolate

Conversely, the bakuchiol commonly found on the market today is an isolate created through a chemical extraction process. It captures the regenerative essence of the plant while discarding other components, including those that often cause irritation. 

This bakuchiol is a concentrated monoterpene phenol isolated from the bakuchi seed. While it is derived from an Ayurvedic source, its preparation and energetic profile shift when it is stripped of the other plant constituents.

• Energetic Neutrality: Unlike the raw oil, which is intensely heating and potentially irritating, the isolated bakuchiol is refined to be soothing. Analysed in Ayurvedic terms, it becomes closer to a Pitta-pacifying substance. It lacks the intensity of the crude oil, apparently making it suitable for sensitive skin types that would otherwise react poorly.

• Promoted as “Age-defying': While bakuchi oil is a medicine for a skin condition, the modern bakuchiol isolate is branded as an “age-defying” tool that maintains skin elasticity.

Key Differences

The Ayurvedic Verdict

From an Ayurvedic standpoint, the difference lies in gross vs. subtle. Bakuchi oil is a "gross" medicinal tool—powerful, heavy, and intended for deep-seated imbalances. It requires a carrier oil like coconut or sesame to mitigate its heat.

Despite the properties of the lab-engineered bakuchiol and the fact that it is based on an Ayurvedic herb, I personally don’t consider it as a truly Ayurvedic oil. I still am searching for a traditionally produced bakuchiol. If you know of a reliable source, please do share it with me.

Author Bio

A master aromatherapist, Ayurvedic practitioner, and owner of Face to Grace, Isabela Blanchet keeps searching for the purest possible skin care ingredients that truly nourish the body and uplift the mind and emotions.